Asian Trip (5)
Thursday, November 11th, 2010By Jian Ping
It was a relief to get back safely to Beijing. The first thing I did after checking into my hotel was to take a long, hot shower. For three days, I only sprinkled cold well water on my face for a wash. The running water felt incredibly good.
The next day, I met my sister Wen and my brother-in-law Mingfu at the train station. The old Beijing Train Station located in the center of town appeared to be from an earlier era, so different from the sparkling new South Beijing Station. Travel by train is still the main means of transportation in China and the station was packed. After elbowing my way through security checks, I was swept forward in a stream of humanity into the No. 2 Waiting Room. 30 feet into the large hall, I found myself grounded on a spot the middle of nowhere, with no space to move forward or backward. As I was wondering how on earth I could find Wen and Mingfu in this crowd, I saw Wen slowly make her way forward in the main “walkway,” searching left and right with each step. She must be looking for me! I raised my hand and waved frantically to her. Miraculously, she saw me and gave me her usual calm smile. It took her five minutes to cover the 10-feet between us.
“We came early and Mingfu is waiting in front,” Wen said, equally relieved to find me.
It was challenging enough for her to move through the crowd without any luggage. There was no way I could join them. She decided to meet in our train carriage.
“Watch out for your belongings,” Wen said. She always worried about my carrying the bag on my back. Pocket picking was common in public places.
The rush to go through the ticketing gate was another drama. I used to warn my American colleagues that if there were three people in front of a ticket office in China, they’d elbow their way to the front instead of forming a line. With at least a thousand people, the scene was chaotic. I grabbed my carry-on and backpack and simply moved with the flow. By the time I found my carriage and eventually reached my seat, I was sweating as if I had just finished a five-mile run.
Wen took over my luggage and placed it on the overhead rack, a space that she had taken for me with her handbag.
“Sorry,” she apologized as if it were her fault. “I know you would have flown to Changchun if it were not because of us.”
That was true. After a six-hour bumpy ride on a bus the day before, I was not looking forward to another six-hour train ride.
“I’d rather be with you,” I said.
Wen gave me the window seat and took out all kinds of snacks for me to munch on. I leaned against her shoulder and gave her hug. I already felt close to home.
Jian Ping, author of Mulberry Child: A Memoir of China. Visit www.mulberrychild.com, www.moraquest.com.
Mulberry Child is being developed into a feature-length documentary film by director Susan Morgan Cooper and will be released in 2011.




