Visiting China—“Thatched Cottage of Du Fu.” (杜甫草堂)
Tuesday, July 19th, 2011by Jian Ping
The most memorable time in Chengdu is my visit to the “Thatched Cottage of Du Fu”, in Chinese, 杜甫草堂。
Du Fu (712-770) is one of the most well-known poets in China. He lived in the Tang Dynasty (618-907) and moved to Chengdu at 47. He built a hut in the then outskirts of the city, which he fondly referred to as his “thatched cottage.” He spent about four years there, composing more than 240 poems, a most productive period of his life. I was first exposed to Du Fu’s poems when I was a child. Today, children in China start learning his poems in elementary school, if not earlier. His classical, rhymed poems are powerful, expressive, and soul-touching. Du Fu’s poems reflected everyday life and events, and he was considered by many as a “social historian.” I was struck with awe as I stood in the rehabilitated “cottage,” imagining this great poet, a genius, once walked the same ground.
In one exhibition hall, a life-size Du Fu stood in front of a horse-pulled cart. It was during the period of An Shi Rebellion (755-763). The eight-year war was brutal, claiming the lives of 32 million people, two-thirds of China’s population at the time. On the wall behind Du Fu was a painting of a battleground, accompanied by his famous poem about the war written at this cottage:
春望
国破山河在, 城春草木深。
感时花溅泪, 恨别鸟惊心。
烽火连三月, 家书抵万金。
白头搔更短, 浑欲不胜簪。
Spring View
The nation has fallen, the mountains and rivers still stand;
Spring greens the trees and grasses in town.
Flower petals shed tears of sorrow;
Birds’ chirpings startle the souls at parting.
Turmoil of war goes on three months in a row;
A letter from home is worth a fortune in gold.
Scratching the white locks makes them thinner;
A hairpin can hardly be held in place.
I remember reciting the poem as a child and revisiting it numerous times as an adult. But standing there next to Du Fu’s statue, I felt the power of the words and the emotion of the poet more than I had ever before. Tears welled up in my eyes.
I wanted to check out every pavilion, garden, exhibition hall and pagoda surrounding the “cottage,” an area of 59 acres. Three hours later, I was still walking back and forth. I captured many photos of tall bamboos, ponds full of golden fish, and well-kept bonsais, along with hangings of Du Fu’s poems in beautiful calligraphy and huts and cottages built in the style of the Tang Dynasty. As the time came for me to leave, I found myself very reluctant to go.
Jian Ping, author of Mulberry Child: A Memoir of China. Visit www.mulberrychild.com, www.moraquest.com for more information. Mulberry Child has been turned into a feature-length documentary film by award-winning director Susan Morgan Cooper and will be released in 2011.










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